Mekong Crossing ข้ามแม่น้ำแม่โขง

We've been to the Mekong River (แม่น้ำแม่โขง) which is the border between Thailand and Laos many times, but we've always stayed on the Thai side of the border. Joyance's dad grew up in Bung Kan right along the Mekong and has roots in both Thailand and Laos. In spite of a lot of sneering by Thais toward Laos, we really wanted to waddle over to the other side. Towel to get his flippers on some Beer Lao; Sam to explore the old temples; Joyance to discover the formerly closed and scarredland of her paternal grandparents.

Hanging Out with the Coconuts

Joyance's parents live on the beach in Laem Phak Bia in Phetchaburi province. Here, Towel can't help notice Sam's resemblence to the local coconuts on the beach. The boat in the background is one of the many local fishing boats. During the night, they're out luring squid with green lights. During the day, there's fresh shrimp, crab and fish to be caught. Lots of food to keep a penguin happy.

Mmm! We enjoyed homemade seafood fried rice with super generous portions of fresh crab made my Joyance's mom.














Although there's an abundance of seafood here in Laem Phak Bia, Phetchaburi is known for its sweets and having their share of wild monkeys running about. Today, we're headed to the Khao Luang Caves just northwest of downtown Phetchaburi.

The photo to the left was taken just outside of the cave and the sign reads, "Don't feed the monkeys here." In addition to all the stalactites dangling from the ceiling, the Khao Luang cave has tons of old Buddha statues which were placed by late King Rama IV.












We didn't have a tripod to reliably take good, sharp photos in the darkness of the cave, but here are a handful of pictures which came out.



Where Are the Penguins? นกเพนกวินอยู่ที่ไหน

สวัสดีครับ ตอนนี้เราอยู่ที่เมืองไทย! ประเทศฝรั่งเศสมีชีสและช็อกโกแล็ตดีมากแต่ตอนนี้เราจะกินอาหารเผ็ดและผลไม้ไทย: ลำไย, สละ, ลูกเงาะ, มังคุด...
Hi, we're in Thailand now! France had great cheese and chocolate, but now we'll dine on spicy food and Thai fruits: longans, salaccas, rambutans, mangosteens...

Okay, so it's a pain in the butt to type in a language that has 42 consonants and 32 vowels. We're also not sure how the Thai looks to readers who may not have the Thai font loaded on their computers. So we'll stick to English for the most part.

We made an excursion to Kanchanaburi, the site of the Bridge over the River Kwai (aka Death Bridge). Unlike the pronounciation used in the 1957 film, the name of the river is pronounced with a short a sound- a bit like the word "square", but without the s in front. Not sure how the mispronounciation in the film came about, but I think it has gotten all the farangs confused.



There's a handful of Japanese tourists here. One can't help wonder what goes through their minds, when visiting a site like this. Perhaps the younger generations do not relate- it's not their war, but how about the older generation?

We spot this iguana outside the WWII museum. This one is just lazing about, but check out those nails! Pretty serious curvature in them. He really didn't move very much even as we approached him. We saw him before entering the museum and after taking a spin around the museum and exiting, we find this lizard in more or less the same exact spot and position. Anyone who can identify the species, please let us know!

Guten Tag aus dem Land der Großbuchstaben!

On our way to Bangkok, we have a layover in Frankfurt, Germany (it seems to be difficult getting a direct flight between Geneva and many places outside of Europe.) We only had a handful of hours to amuse ourselves, but fortunately downtown Frankfurt is only a handful of subway stops on the S-bahn from the airport (unlike Narita Airport in Tokyo or JFK in New York!)

Given that we didn't want to cut things close with our connecting flight, we were not very adventurous and more or less waddled between Konstablerwache and Hauptwache. Unfortunately, this meant we didn't get to explore many Germanic charms of the city. However, we did make sure to eat appropriately for tourists in Frankfurt!

Oh, and remember that French movie poster for "Le Voyage Extraordinaire de Samy"?

"Sammys Abenteuer: Die Suche Nach der geheimen Passage"

Hail Britannia!

We recently had been in touch with an old curling friend, David Cruickshank, who is now outside of London with his wife, Nancee. John has never been to London and with London being a quick two and a half hour trip on the Eurostar, this was a great opportunity to see the city.

Paris is a beautiful city. Lovely weather with everything stylish about it, its monuments, museums, cafes, the bridges and walkways of the Seine and the grand rues. However, there is something appealing to the grit of London.

The Cruickshanks recently moved to Iver near Uxbridge, about a 45 minute tube ride west from downtown London. They are still in the exploratory phase and have been making trips to the local countryside as well as London as they learn about their new home. So we decided to spend our time together galavanting in the Cotswolds during the weekend and John and we waddled around London during the weekday.

Piccadilly Circus, Charing Cross, Baker Street were all convenient tube stops. From Trafalgar Square it was easy to make our way to the numerous parks of the city where the penguins played in Queen Mary's rose garden, to Buckingham Palace and Downing Street and Westminster, and along the Thames to visit the Tate Modern which was brand new when Joyance and Towel were last here.

How often does a museum permit photos inside? Towel ands Joyance used to visit the Tate Modern quite a bit the year the lived in England. We love all the free museums of London. The $20 entry fee at New York's MoMA is just staggering; we should make a point of making the most of the Target Free Friday Afternoons at MoMA as soon as we get back to New York and while Joyance is still on leave.

Right beside the Tate Modern is the Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. At £5 a ticket, we had to catch "The Merry Wives of Windsor". We were definitely all in the mood for some good mischievous comedy. How could we pass up some good Shakespeare at the Globe while in London? It didn't matter that only standing room tickets were available. In fact, they were closer to the stage and it was so cool to be transformed centuries back in time and watch the play like a common 17th century groundling in the pit.

Instrumentalists introducing "The Merry Wives of Windsor" at Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. Full of double-entendre and mistaken intentions, the play was hysterical. A wonderful end to a fun time in London.





Towel with the English roses.
















While we're at it, we'll continue snapping photos of amusing goods and packaging for sale abroad.
I understand that not every nut particle can be avoided in a factory that works with them, but what is this company's operation like that the "May Contain" list is so inclusive?


Not sure if natural pebble is what I want printed prominently on my toilet paper.


Hey, penguins!


Teeth and lips gummies? Creepy.


So all the other bags of crisps featured pictures of the ingredient representing the flavor (e.g. onions, pepper, barbeque.) So why does the mature cheddar have a picture of three older women?

Dans Paris

Our trip from our arrival in Genève, to catching the Tour de France in Laffrey, woofing on a farm in L'Epine and circling the Mont Blanc massif has been a wonderful adventure. We soaked in sights, made new friends, ate well and experienced the great outdoors.

It probably was not the smartest thing to do, but it seemed rude and counter to the whole cultural immersion spirit to not do it. Taking a dip in Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) is the favorite mode of relaxation for the locals and you were crazy not to partake. In spite of it being a still body of fresh water, Lac Léman seemed perfectly safe. It was easily the clearest looking lake I've seen and heck, Evian was nearby.

I don't know for sure if the rash came from Lac Léman, I started breaking out into a rash the day after the dip in the lake. It became much more aggressive the following day and so I went to see a local doctor. I was too irritable (haven't been able to sleep because of the itchiness and fighting the urge to scratch was beginning to get maddening) to figure out how to handle health insurance abroad and in French. The doctor prescribed antihistamines and cortizone and charged 22 euros- 22 euros for an uninsured non-citizen- that's all I had to pay for the visit. That's comparable to my copay in the States!

I wish I could say that resolved everything with the rash, but it continued to spread and it started succumbing to the itchiness. A visit to the hospital in Thonon two days led to an antibiotic prescription and a cleanser. Price for hospital emergency room visit? 55 euros. Unfortunately the side effects of the medications include nausea and drowsiness and I'm to avoid sunlight. This basically makes me both miserable and useless on the farm. I'm also pretty hideous at this point.

We scheduled a follow up appointment with a doctor in nearby Douvaine three days later. At this point the rash has stopped spreading, but has barely subsided and I'm all pock-marked/scarred. It's been almost a week and the third doctor asked if I ventured into Lac Léman...

Apparently there's nothing that can be done other than to wait it all out and moisturize and continue to use cortizone for the itching. The third doctor seems certain in his conclusion that I'm sensitive to some parasite in the lake. Argh. John's been in the lake more than I have and there's nothing on him! At this point our relationship with the raspberry farmer, who had a bit of an anti-American disposition to start with, has broken down. While we have encountered locals and other Europeans who seem to have a preconception that all Americans were ugly Americans, we had managed to dispel that until we hit this farm (who also had a grudge with city people and city life as well, which was a bit rich coming from a farmer who admitted to never ever having visited a city). It seemed best to part ways and as we left we were given a diatribe on how Americans all leave the light on when not in use, or cleaned up after themselves (which totally did not apply to us) and never participated in farm life and fun like enjoying Lac Léman. Really?! I so regret ever having fun in Lac Léman! Of course, they write off the third doctor's conclusion as impossible. I do find it interesting though that my face is the only part of me unaffected by the rash and I never did submerge my head in the water.

We headed to Paris to stay with a friend who recently moved from New York. With the exception of the raspberry farm, we've really had a wonderful trip everywhere else and wanted to end it on a positive note.

Dr. Mira Kamdar is a writer and India expert. She is an American francophile partially of Indian descent. She will be working this school year at the Centre des Etudes de l’Inde et l’Asie du Sud at the EHESS (Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales) as a Fulbright Senior Scholar. She is also a friend who was generous enough to put us up until our next stop.

We've all been to Paris before, but it's been a while and the city is a lovely walking city with all the musées, ponts, jardins et monuments. We spend our time refamiliarizing ourselves with the city and athough we spend all our time on foot, we appreciate the free-cycling program launched by the city. Our next stop in out tale is another major city that has very recently launched a similar bike program... London.

Want to Tackle the Tour du Mont Blanc?

Thinking of tackling the Tour of Mont Blanc? We'd absolutely recommend this hike to anyone who enjoys hiking and is fit enough to do it. We heard that the recommended fitness level before doing the tour is the ability to run 10K or race a 5K; that felt about right if you want to complete the tour without cheating and without trouble. It is not a technical hike nor does it require any super-athleticism (afterall, we've done things like squash two stages in one day), but it's also not just a day hike.

While climbing up and down peaks in a series of day hikes with a weighted backpack over varied terrain for a week and a half is not trivial, there are many options for making the complete tour more or less challenging to accommodate different fitness levels. However, the less challenging and more pampered options will generally cost more in terms of both time and money.

While the Kev Reynolds guide divides the tour up in 10 - 11 stages, there were groups taking more than 10 - 11 days to do the tour. Extra break days will allow for extra recuperation. Les Contamines, Courmayeur, La Fouly and Champex are all little resort towns where one can pamper oneself with hotels (read: private rooms with private bath), restaurants and shops for supplies. The endpoints of the latter stages like Col de la Forclaz, Tré-le-Champ and La Flégère are near resort towns which can be accessed by public transportation. Obviously, the more fit you are the more you'll be able to enjoy the hike and there's lots of pride in tackling the entire tour on foot without cheating (e.g. catching rides, hiring a mule to carry luggage).

On the other hand, if you're up for lugging around your own tent, tent floor, sleeping bag, gas stove and what not (we didn't), you can save a bundle on lodging. Might be nice to stay indoors if it's raining or if you need to dry anything out. Food is generally cheaper at a grocery store in one of the towns than at the refuge restaurant. Food is significantly more expensive in Switzerland.

While we're sure it was not fun for our British friend to hobble for hours up and down rocks to get to the nearest public transportation point, it is comforting to know that public transportation and help is not necessarily a four-day hike away in the case of injury. Towns like Les Contamines, Courmayeur and the towns in the valley near Chamonix are ski towns with either buses or cable cars leading to them. Much of the trail in Switzerland was not too far from a road with a bus route.

Given that, it's good to be aware that there are long swaths of the trail where the only choice of shelter for kilometers is a dingy mountain hut with no road access and where food and supplies need to be brought up either by mule or even helicopter (which explains why a shared dortoir filled with other stinky hikers can still go for 40 euros/night per person demi-pension, or even higher in Switzerland).

There are plenty of potable water sources along the way and with the exception of the last day (La Flégère to Les Houches), we never felt the need to carry more than 2L at a time. Note that drinking water is not free at La Flégère and the next free water stop is not until about four hours later at Refuge de Bellachat. Although Plan Praz is not far along the way, it does not open until 11am and the water is not free at Le Brévent.

As far as what to bring on the trip goes, there's the fairly obvious:
A comfortable, properly-fitted rusack to carry everything.
Water.
Technical clothing for varied weather: waterproof shell, a fleece/sweater layer, technical long sleeve, multiple technical short sleeve layers; hiking pants, Gortex backpacking boots, hiking socks all essential; hat or some sort of head protection as the sun is strong and there's less atmosphere protecting you; on the same note, sunglasses; gloves would have been nice, but we forgot to bring them.
Clothing and flip flops for cold nights in the dortoir- actually, the fleece/sweater layer was used more for this.

Basic toiletries: toothbrush, toothpaste, hand sanitizer, napkins, soap for bathing and handwashing clothes, sunscreen.
Technical towel: Mountain refuges and dortoirs do not have towels for you. Technical towels are nicely light, absorbent and they dry quickly.

The Kev Reynolds guide is immensely informative. We used it all the time.

First-aid kit: we used bandages, moleskin, alcohol pads, Neosporin/bacitracin, Swiss Army knife, allergy medication, ibuprofen. Basically, our first-aid kit was pretty well used; the mylar blanket was probably the only thing we didn't need to bring (thank goodness).

Flashlights to get around the dortoir at night.

Wallet (some refuges take only cash), identification, passport (some hotels require it and you'll probably have it on you anyway), etc...

Hiking poles are highly recommended. It's almost a must-have if you have any knee problems.

We had a Mont Blanc area map and compass and we used them, though the trail is marked well enough for the most part for these to not be a neccessity.

Don't forget the camera!

Anyhow, that's more or less it! There was little need to pack extra diversions as by the time we reached our endpoint for the day we were either too busy socializing with our fellow hikers or looking to just wash up and catch some z's.

Happy trails!

Le Tour du Mont Blanc: Days 8 - 10

Date: le 30 juillet
Route: Col de la Forclaz - Tré-le-Champ
Distance: 13 km (8.2 mi)
Start altitude: 1,526 m (5,087 ft)
Height gain: 1,069 m (3,563 ft)
Height loss: 1,178 m (3,927 ft)

Date: le 31 juillet (all distances approximate)
Route: Tré-le-Champ - La Flégère
Distance: 9 km (5.7 mi)
Start altitude: 1,417 m (4,723 ft)
Height gain: 953 m (3,177 ft)
Height loss: 477 m (1,590 ft)

Date: le 1er août
Route: La Flégère - Les Houches
Distance: 17 km (10.7 mi)
Start altitude: 1,875 m (6,250 ft)
Height gain: 772m (2,573 ft)
Height loss: 1,546m (5,153 ft)

With 130 km (82 mi) behind us and three days left to do three stages, we're feeling pretty good. We also look forward to crossing back into France and seeing Mont Blanc again which we haven't seen since Italy.

It's a bit of a climb out of the forest from Col de la Forclaz to the Swiss/French border (where the Refuge du Col de Balme is rumored to be run by an extremely stingy little old lady), but at the top we are rewarded with panoramic views of a valley pointing us back to the Mont Blanc massif. As we make our way toward the Aiguilette des Posettes (which at 2,191 m (7,303 ft) is the high point for this stage) we are treated to not just to the open views, but also to great photographic opportunities of the glaciers.

Our accommodation at Tré-le-Champ, is one of the few that happens to have a website. Check it out to get a sense of a dortoir. While our eigth day was not a particularly long or arduous day, the climbs to both the Swiss/French border and the aiguilette after a week of hiking left us very appreciative of the healthy portions served at Tré-le-Champ.

The ninth day (stage 10 in the Kev Reynolds guide) is supposed to be a short stage, but a slight diversion of the TMB route came highly recommended in good weather. The diversion is both longer and higher, but brings us to Lac Blanc. The route we chose also involves climbing a series of steep timber steps and ladders without which the route would become a technical climb up rock walls.

Interestingly enough, none of the nausea I experienced during the descent into Courmayeur during day three popped up while tackling the ladders. Perhaps it was because we were always facing into the mountain. Perhaps it was because it wasn't so windy. Perhaps it was because we were going up and not down. Whatever the reason, the ladders were a bit of adventurous fun and it shared some of the workout from the trek to the upper body.



Our penultimate day took much longer than we thought. Until today, we had kept a close pace to the time estimates provided in the guide. Perhaps a combination of the Lac Blanc detour and fatigue from the previous stages is taking its toll. Whatever the reason we are happy to reach La Flégère, but are daunted by the prospect of the massive descent into Les Houches for the last stage- it sounds like a knee breaker.


We are back in ski tourism country again and as majestic Mont Blanc is up close, the trails are ski scarred around La Flégère. The ski scarred trails make for rougher hiking as the boulders are both jarring and loose, not to mention somewhat unsightly.

It's unfortunate because Mont Blanc is simply magnificent here. Italy had the gorgeous valley views of Mont Blanc and the massif; in this part of France, Mont Blanc is right in front of you. It's truly striking and a photograph just can't capture the grandeur of the mountain at close range.

Pictures from the final decent




Towel looks a bit like a cairn


We finally tumbled down into Les Houches and congratulated ourselves on completing the hike. It was an amazing trek. After a rejuvenating bath back at our hotel in Chamonix, we treated ourselves to the very un-Alpine meal of sushi. We finished our final leg in good time too because the photogenically sunny skies had turned to strong, windy rainstorm by evening.